Friday, February 27, 2009


He went out into the blizzard and we have not seen him since.

R Scott, Scott's Last Expedition, 1913
On Captain Lawrence Oates.

We can't resist a walk onto the frozen Adirondack lake, snowstorm and all. Fishermen report the ice at over a foot thick. Kevin, Alex and I travel maybe 3/4 of a mile from the beach. Once past the shelter of the bay, the wind is abrasive and we turn back, the farther shore unreached for this year. The short trek is invigorating, we are eager for another go, but we need to head home in the afternoon.

Wednesday, February 18, 2009



CHAPTER 2
Enduring


The protection of the Antarctic environment and dependent and associated ecosystems is in the interest of mankind as a whole. 

 - The Protocol on Environmental Protection to the Antarctic Treaty, 1991


Posts to this blog will continue on a weekly basis.



 Photo by Frank Hurley, 1915
The Endurance

Tuesday, February 10, 2009





The weather in Brooklyn is identical to the Peninsula. 38°F. Overcast. A light wind, permitting boating (< 20 knots).


Somehow it isn't the same.




Saturday, February 7, 2009





Hours, days, leagues of air travel loom.

Friday, February 6, 2009




Punta Arenas at last. It is still overrun with overhead cables.





Kevin has sent Cinnamon along with me as emmisary, and to keep me company. Chilean immigration officials stamp her passport.

Thursday, February 5, 2009





The sea crossing, clouds and water much of the time, offers rainbows and sunsets.

Wednesday, February 4, 2009




We leave the seals, whales, and penguins behind, while birds escort the ship true to folklore. Over 50 Cape Petrels cavort along the port side for the afternoon.

Tuesday, February 3, 2009




The Drake passage is even calmer on the return trip.

Monday, February 2, 2009




We sail around the back of Anvers Island through Neumeyer Channel, glassy in the windless morning.





A detour North takes us to King George Island to pick up 4 passengers from the Polish Arctowski Station. Their station zodiak meets the ship in the midnight darkness of Admiralty Bay.

Sunday, February 1, 2009



The LMG arrives, dwarfing the small pier.
Our gear is hoisted aboard.



A lovely bergy-bit trapped by the ship crumbles away over the course of the day, it's striped blue a splendid contrast to the gleaming orange hull.